So here’s the White Star Bar AU garbage from my sketchbook time at work and one from the plane to Gallifrey. These aren’t sequential to each other, they just sort of look it. (Link goes to my tag for this stuff, which should contain most of what exists already.)
No one will be surprised to see it is 80% Londo, because I’m predictable, shut up, yes, moving on from that, I’m gonna talk about what all this junk is and watch myself spiral into something in the background of my own brain. You’re welcome to join me.
Transcriptions of writing and translations of ‘what the fuck is this even’ after the read more, plus just general thinking and character building that will likely get too serious too fast. It’s a party.
1. Cut out a generic LARGE tear drop shape.
You’re going to have to make numerous DARTS in the foam to get the cup shape to
cover your own boobs.
Cut one (1) slit and position the craft foam so that the ends overlap each
other then temporarily tape it down using some masking tape.
Do this a couple times with more slits of various lengths until you get a
rudimentary curved looking 3D foam shape.
You can mark off with a pen or pencil where you should cut out the
darts, then take off all the tape and cut the pieces.
MATERIALS:
- Rubber Cement (or
contact cement)
- Hot Glue
2. After that I used
rubber cement (you can find it at any stationary/craft store) to cement the
darts. It’s still kind of fragile that way, so I took my hot glue gun and
smeared hot glue along the seams on the INSIDE to make them hold better.
3. Try the finished
craft foam cups on and see that they cover your full breast (sides and all). Also,
if the cleavage type you need is different, the shape I made is not necessary.
You might make the top a bit different shape. The reason I chose to cut
the fake boobs this way is because I needed a v-neck plunge, so the tops of
mine are pointy.
MATERIALS:
- Yellow Upholstery Foam
- Hot Glue
4. After you have those craft foam pieces, you need to use yellow upholstery
foam. This type of foam is important because I tried to use softer stuff and it
collapses so easily. Get this foam (usually comes in 1/2” thickness) from
stores that have an upholstery or drapery section.
(Photo from spana298 original Japanese tutorial. Also see crunchyroll link here)
5. Stretch the
foam onto the shape. DO NOT rip it or cut darts. Foam is pliable so see how
Altiera spana used clips to hold it on?? You can do the same, I just used hair
clips.
Once it’s stretched
out a bit (give it a couple minutes), you can use glue to just glue it on. Hot
glue will warp craft foam though, and hot glue stays hot for a long time on
yellow foam, so be VERY careful not to burn yourself if you use hot glue!
6. Trim and shave your
foam down at the EDGES so you have a nice smooth shape (not blocky).
MATERIALS:
- stretch knit fabric
7. Find a stretch knit
fabric. I found a beige stretch knit in the activewear/lycra section of
Fabricland. I generally prefer stretch knit to 100% synthetic spandex or lycra
because it takes to hot glue really well, whereas the other stuff just seems to
dry flaky.
8. Stretch the fabric
over and use some pins or clips to hold it in place (careful to not rip your
foam). Hot glue the fabric edges to the inside of the cups.
9. To make the breats
more realistic, you can add liquid latex (flesh tone). I used BEN NYE brand
from an 8oz container. This stuff goes a long way, so you won’t need the entire
8oz (you can probably use 4oz as more than enough). I first did a test on a
scrap piece of knit fabric to see how many layers I needed before I got a
skin-like texture.
I got a bag of
Popsicle sticks and dipped one in the liquid latex then used the stick to
smooth it onto the fabric. One layer soaked up a lot so it became very rough
looking. Once it dried, I brushed on a layer of baby powder. Liquid
latex needs to be brushed with powder after every coat. I added a second coat
of liquid latex using the popsicle sticks. (Throw out the popsicle sticks after
every use, and use lots. If latex dries on it, it won’t spread smoothly, so
just use more. It gets smoother than a sponge and is much cheaper than brushes).
For the THIRD coat (I
had tested on a small patch previously and figured 3 coats would look good), I
did NOT use popsicle sticks. I set the boob on a paint bottle to prop it UP and
AWAY from the table. I then lightly POURED liquid latex directly from the
bottle onto the boob and manipulated the boob around so that the entire thing got
coated this way. I let the excess DRIP off and onto the work board underneath.
If a few air bubbles
get in it that’s ok, it actually helps to add realistic look to the ‘skin’.
Once it’s dry, brush with baby powder. Do both boobs this way.
10. Trim off
any dried drips of liquid latex that collected on the edges of your boobs.
11. To match perfectly
your skin tone, I AIRBRUSHED my false boobs using an Airbrush and Airbrush
paints. SEE THIS VIDEO OF MY PAINTING HERE.
You can probably use
make-up to paint the latex as an alternative to airbrushing. There are plenty
of latex painting tutorials on the web!
12. To add straps, you
can simply sew some on to the excess fabric that was glued into the inside of
the boob cups. Reinforce your sewing stitches with hot glue. You can add a
small piece of fabric in between the breasts as well to help hold them together.
